Bringing Northern Thai Flavors to the Blue Ridge

James Beard Award-nominated chef Kanlaya “Gun” Supachana learned to cook from her father, absorbing the flavors and techniques of Lanna food, the regional cuisine of Northern Thailand. Her approach is still rooted in memory and tradition.

“I love cooking from my memory. When I was young, I learned from my father,” she explains, exploring the flavors and techniques of Lanna food, the regional cuisine of Northern Thailand. Her approach is still rooted in memory and tradition.

Her father’s knowledge influenced Gun’s menus, which feature dishes rarely found outside of her home region, with ingredients imported directly from Chiang Mai. Her signature dishes include Khao Soi, a curry noodle soup that has been served nearly 30,000 times since opening, and Sai Oua, herbal sausage that won “Best Sausage in New York” in 2015.

When she visited Western North Carolina, though, she felt a deep connection: a resemblance to home. That connection led her and partner Dave Weeks to open Dalaya Thai Cuisine in Sylva in September 2019.

“The first week, people walked out a lot because I don’t have pad Thai,” Gun remembers with a laugh. Some customers even shouted at her for the omission.

Gun held firm to her vision of serving her own authentic, Northern Thai cuisine.

Within weeks, word spread. Pete Wells, renowned restaurant critic from the New York Times visited multiple times to confirm what he was experiencing. Gun didn’t realize who he was at first. “The third time, my customers say that’s Pete Wells, you know him? But I say, no, I didn’t know anyone—just open and working,” she recalls. After his review, lines stretched two blocks long.

Before opening with those lines of supporters, Gun spent three years and three months unable to secure traditional financing. Other avenues she tried weren’t willing to take a chance on her dream. After being connected to Mountain BizWorks through community referrals, Gun found the financing she needed to finally open her doors.

Then, when the pandemic hit shortly after opening, the community rallied. Retired professors from Western Carolina University organized to support the restaurant three times a week. Some customers sent checks to help servers survive. One professor even moved to the area in part to to be closer to Dalaya Thai.

Of course, Hurricane Helene brought new challenges. Though the building wasn’t damaged, Dalaya was closed for nearly two weeks without power. When they reopened, business was slow as the community worried about finances.

“I got the email from Mountain BizWorks. You should apply to this one,” Gun recalls. The WNC Strong: Helene Business Recovery Fund provided crucial support. “Very grateful and helpful to have the money back up to do the business.” Mountain BizWorks has also helped with expansion, coaching, and connecting Gun with other business owners. 

She was grateful for that community support through every challenge: “They show up, they eat, and they pay,” Gun says with gratitude, noting that showing up is key.

Through every challenge, Gun has stayed true to her father’s recipes and the flavors of her hometown. In doing so, she’s given Western North Carolina something rare and precious: an authentic taste of Northern Thailand, served with heart.

In fact, 2024 brought a new reason to celebrate. Gun was named a semi-finalist for the James Beard Foundation’s Best Chef: Southeast award—a prestigious recognition that validates her commitment to authentic Northern Thai cuisine and her journey from Brooklyn to the mountains of North Carolina.

Now, Gun is preparing for her sixth anniversary celebration featuring food from all four regions of Thailand. The celebration is also a thank you to the community that welcomed her.

“I really appreciate the people’s support,” she says. “They’re the reason we’re still here.”